The Prettiest Village In England
Once,
there was a village. It was a place of thatch and climbing ivy, one of church bells and chimney smoke. Dwellings here
were christened with names rather than numbers, granted titles such as Shepherd’s Cottage and Preedy’s Grange.
A narrow river traversed this idyllic hamlet, its
banks a habitat for reeds and the whisper of the water. When it rained, as it
often did here, a mist hung like curtains of tulle and the golden stone of the
village was stained a darker shade of honey. Those who visited said it was
marked by a charm that was almost bewitching.
In the present day, the gluttonous
hands of modernity have simply caressed Castle Combe. Settled in rural
Wiltshire, the self-proclaimed Prettiest Village in England is a ten-mile
journey from Bath. A drive here will involve winding lanes, routes canopied
with trees and signs from farms for eggs and local spreads. It takes little
wondering as to why period dramas such as Stardust
and Warhorse took advantage of this civil
parish for filming.
I made use of the free public car park, walking
perhaps half a mile into the village proper. Although Castle Combe Circuit, a motorsport
track, is situated close by, the village held no signs of racing enthusiasts. The
falling rain intensified the green of the trees, of the leaves, of the plants
that were slowly budding into their spring colours. The path curved downwards
to reveal the first glimpses of a cottage and the view was striking, even under
the dull sky. It was a vision of fairy-tale imaginings. I expected my coat to
melt into a ballgown, and birds to begin relaying their messages in human
tongue. My feet splashed through puddles that held the reflection of a village
caught in time.
Castle Combe is not large. It consists of a single
street of residential buildings, two pubs, a tea room and a smattering of
guesthouses. Nor is it a place where you could – or should – spend a day. It is
a village, after all. My camera captured private property. Doors with gilded
knockers led into homes, whilst windows with time-warped frames were openings
into real lives. However, that is not to say one should neglect a visit.
In a tour of the Cotswolds, Castle Combe surely stands
out on a map of beautiful destinations. Providing both charm and
postcard-perfect views, it has certainly earned its title of the Prettiest
Village in England.
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